The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner, a name synonymous with diving prowess and enduring luxury, boasts a rich and complex history reflected in its evolving reference numbers. More than just a timekeeping instrument, the Submariner represents a significant chapter in horological innovation, mirroring advancements in diving technology and the ever-evolving demands of its discerning clientele. This article delves into the fascinating history of the Rolex Submariner, exploring its various reference numbers, production years, design changes, and the factors that have shaped its legendary status.
Rolex Submariner History Models:
The Submariner's journey began in 1953 with the introduction of reference 6204, a groundbreaking watch designed for professional divers. This initial model, featuring a 37mm Oyster case, already showcased many of the features that would define the Submariner lineage: water resistance, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and exceptional durability. The 6204, often referred to as the "Big Crown" Submariner due to its larger crown, lacked a date function. This was followed by reference 6205, which maintained the same aesthetic but incorporated minor internal improvements. The subsequent reference 6538, also a "Big Crown," marked a significant step forward with enhanced water resistance capabilities. This model, famously worn by Commander Jacques Cousteau, solidified the Submariner's reputation as a reliable tool watch for professional use.
The transition to the "Small Crown" era began with reference 5510, which featured a smaller crown and a more refined case design. This reference, produced from the late 1950s to the early 1960s, paved the way for the iconic reference 5512, a highly sought-after collector's piece known for its elegant simplicity and robust construction. The 5512, produced for over a decade, represents a pinnacle of understated design and reliability. Its sister model, the reference 5513, introduced the evolution of the Submariner's lume, significantly improving readability in low-light conditions. These two references, the 5512 and 5513, are often considered the quintessential vintage Submariners.
The introduction of the date function marked a significant turning point in the Submariner's history. Reference 1680, launched in 1969, incorporated a cyclops lens over the date window, a feature that has become a hallmark of the Submariner to this day. This model also featured a larger, more robust case. The 16800, a later iteration, further refined the design and improved the movement.
The 1980s brought about the reference 16610, a significant step towards the modern Submariner. This model, with its improved movement and refined aesthetics, established a design language that would continue for decades. The 16610LV (nicknamed the "Hulk" for its green bezel) is a particularly sought-after variant of this reference.
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